Colonial Influences on Traditional South African Bridal Attire

The Evolution of Umakoti and Cultural Identity

Authors

  • Sakhiseni Joseph Yende Department of Language Education, Arts & Culture, College of Education, University of South Africa, South Africa https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7649-2799
  • Gumbi Sandile Ntethelelo Department of Social Work, Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences, University of Zululand, South Africa https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0819-3869

Keywords:

colonial influence, cultural identity, decoloniality, indigenous aesthetics, postcolonial theory, umakoti, traditional bridal attire

Abstract

Colonialism had a profound influence not only on South African education, economic, and political affairs but also on African traditions, particularly in the context of dress code. The article explores the colonial influences on traditional South African bridal attire, with a particular focus on the evolution of the concept of umakoti and its implications for cultural identity. Grounded in Postcolonial Theory, the article adopts a qualitative approach employing document content analysis of archival sources and secondary literature complemented by image analysis to investigate visual representations of bridal attire across different historical periods. The findings are thematically presented in three main themes and subsequent subthemes. The main themes presented include: (1) the colonial influence and hybridisation of bridal attire, highlighting the fusion of Western and indigenous elements; (2) the role of language in shaping cultural constructs, with "umakoti" reflecting evolving identities; and (3) the negotiation of postcolonial identity through bridal fashion as a site of cultural expression and resistance. The article argues that traditional bridal attire has become a symbolic space where colonial legacies and indigenous identity intersect. The article’s recommendations are threefold and include enhanced funding and policy support from the South African Department of Arts, Culture and Heritage to advance traditional aesthetic practices, the incorporation of decolonial theory within fashion education curricula, and the promotion of interdisciplinary research on cultural hybridity to inform inclusive and culturally responsive design and policy frameworks.

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Author Biographies

  • Sakhiseni Joseph Yende, Department of Language Education, Arts & Culture, College of Education, University of South Africa, South Africa

    Sakhiseni Joseph Yende is an emerging distinguished scholar currently affiliated with the Centre for Advanced Studies of African Society (CASAS) at the University of the Western Cape as a Postdoctoral Fellow. His academic journey has been marked by significant achievements in the performing arts, especially in opera, as highlighted by his PhD research on “Investigating the Challenges and Workable Solutions for the Future of Opera Companies in South Africa,” expected to culminate in March 2025. His research interests span diverse fields, including musicology, ethnomusicology, African music, linguistics, gospel music, opera, political science, and education. This multidisciplinary approach underscores his broad expertise in the arts. Sakhiseni has authored over 60 articles published in DHET-accredited journals, contributed to book chapters, and presented his work at numerous conferences, both locally and internationally, making him a significant and rising figure in the academic and artistic communities.

  • Gumbi Sandile Ntethelelo, Department of Social Work, Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences, University of Zululand, South Africa

    Sandile Ntethelelo Gumbi hold is a Doctor of Philosophy in Human Sciences at the University of Mpumalnga. His research focus is mainly, on Social Work Supervision, Decoloniality and Afrocentricity. Mr Gumbi conducted a Masters study from January 2019 to December 2021, and that is the study on which the article is based. He was responsible for conceptualising the article and led the process, including collating the activities and liaison with the Journal.

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Published

09-04-2026

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Section

Articles

How to Cite

Yende, S. J., & Ntethelelo, G. S. (2026). Colonial Influences on Traditional South African Bridal Attire: The Evolution of Umakoti and Cultural Identity. TWIST, 21(2), 17-26. https://twistjournal.net/twist/article/view/856

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